Bikepacking in Kosciuszko National Park: Gravel Ride to Happys Hut

Happys Hut is up there as one of my favourite huts in Kosciuszko National Park. The first time I hiked out there, I hadn’t even planned on staying. I stopped in for lunch, sat on the porch, and that was it. I just couldn’t bring myself to leave. I spent the whole afternoon reading through the hut logbook and watching the sunset behind the hills.

When the hut burnt down in the 2020 fires, I promised myself I’d go back as soon as it was rebuilt. This time on my bike from a different approach, the ride was just as good as the destination. Smooth stretches of champagne gravel, sweeping views over Lake Eucumbene, and even a cheeky glimpse of Mount Jagungal. It’s the perfect gravel ride for a big day out or a beginner overnight bikepacking trip, and it’s just over 2-hours from Canberra.

Quick Look

Distance: 52km return

Elevation Gain: 1150m

Duration: 1-2 Days

Skill level: Confident Beginner/Intermediate

Location: Northern Kosciuszko National Park, NSW

GPX: https://ridewithgps.com/trips/287148509

About the Ride to Happys Hut

The Snowy Monaro region has been home to the Ngarigo people for thousands of years. Each summer, they’d travel into the alpine for ceremonies and to harvest bogong moths, before returning to the valleys for warmth and shelter when it began to snow. Sadly, when the Eucumbene Dam was built in 1958, many Aboriginal campsites and relics, in this area, were drowned beneath the rising water.

Happys Hut was first built in 1931, mostly used by grazers. It was lost to the 2020 bushfires, but NSW National Parks & Wildlife Service (NPWS) and Kosciuszko Huts Association (KHA) rebuilt it in 2024, and personally, I think they’ve done a brilliant job of replicating the old hut.

Where to Start & End the Ride to Happys Hut

This ride is an out-and-back, starting on Happy Jacks Road in Kosciuszko National Park. It’s just under 2.5-hours drive south of Canberra or about 5-hours from Sydney. The trailhead is close to Eucumbene village, but this has no services. Jindabyne or Cooma are the best bets for food, a resupply or fuel, however both are about 45-minutes’ drive away.

At the trailhead you’ll find a locked gate. There’s a small dirt parking area nearby, but the entry is a tad steep and only suited to 4WDs. My Subaru Outback was too low, so I parked on the roadside and made sure I wasn’t blocking the gate.

Beyond the gate is private access road. Pushbikes (not motorbikes) and hikers are welcome, but public vehicles are not. Even if you see the gate open, don’t drive through. Stay on the road, ride past the private property, and respect the landowners.

Skill Level Needed to Ride to Happys Hut

The ride to Happys Hut is best suited for intermediate riders as a day trip, or beginners as an overnight bikepacking adventure. It’s not the best choice if you’ve never ridden off-road at all before. It’s remote, and some sections get rough. But if you’re a confident cyclist looking to dip a toe into bikepacking, this is a great place to start.

Most of it is smooth enough to spin without too much effort. The only janky section is Happy Jacks Trail itself: the last 2 kms down to the hut and back out. Expect a little hike-a-bike here.

*Most of the ride is champagne gravel like this*

Best Time to Ride to Happys Hut

In winter the high plains are completely covered in snow, and the hut becomes inaccessible on a bike (unless you own a fatbike). In spring the wildflowers bloom, but the weather can be pretty unstable with heavy rains and strong winds. Peak summer can have brutal blowflies, and blistering heat. Early autumn is probably my top pick: crisp mornings, cloud inversions, and perfect riding temps.

*Views of Mount Jagungal on the ride, on an perfect autumn day*

Where to Stay Before the Ride to Happys Hut

If you’re driving from afar, Eucumbene village has a few accommodation options. The Eucumbene Lakeview Cottages look gorgeous, but I’m yet to stay there myself. For camping, Braemar Bay Holiday Park is just around the corner and makes a nice base.

If planning to stay the night at Happys Hut, a tent can be pitched around the hut, but keep in mind that sleeping inside the KHA huts is for emergency use only. There’s no toilet here, so come prepared and make sure to Leave No Trace.

*We love reading the ‘trail tales’ in the hut logbooks*

Trip Report

Passing through the locked gate on Happy Jacks Road, the ride goes straight into a steady climb. It’s nothing too brutal, just enough to get the pedals spinning and warm up the legs. The gravel road passes close to a few houses, each plastered with warning signs to “Keep Out”. It’s clear the locals are weary of unexpected visitors, so please stay on track.

The ride crosses through open forests of charred tree stumps left behind by the 2020 fires, and reminder of just how hard this area was hit. Cresting the rise, the landscape suddenly breaks wide open into what we dubbed “Big Sky Lookout”. The view spills wide over Lake Eucumbene below, and Mount Bimberi can just be seen in the distance. It’s Northern Kosciuszko NP at its best: quiet, expansive and completely underrated.

The gravel undulates gently after entering the Jagungal Wilderness. Happy Jacks Road peels to the left, and we quickly realised that we were not meant to continue down it. Instead, continue straight on Tolbar Road. A little further on, the trail passes the turnoff to Grey Mare Trail, joining the forces with some of Australia’s best long-distance hikes, the Bicentennial National Trail (BNT) and the Australian Alps Walking Track (AAWT).

Somewhere along this stretch we spotted a hut in the distance. For a moment I thought it had to be Happys, but a quick check of the map and we realised it was the newly rebuilt Brooks Hut. I added it straight to the growing mental list of ‘must visit huts’.

As soon as we turned onto Tabletop Mountain Trail the ride completely changed. Smooth gravel becomes rocky, rutted 4WD track that was slow going. After a short climb, Happys Hut finally came into view across Snowy Plain, tucked away into the corner of the hills. Loose rock, combined with awkward gradients, and just plain jank forced me to hop off and walk in a few spots. Beginners might be better leaving the bikes at the junction and hike in. Two little bridges cross the creeks that run through the plain (no wet feet on this ride!). These are the only water source near the hut and a good chance to refill bottles, just remember to filter it as many animals live in this area.

And then there it was. Happys Hut. I can confirm the rebuild did the old hut justice. Fresh timber, and a porch that was clearly made for lounging, just like the one I sat on all those years ago.

*The porch was just as good as I remember*

The Return Trip

The return ride was much faster. All that climbing on the way in turned into a fun descent home. It’s the kind of grin-inducing finish that makes you forget the uphill slog. Just make sure your brake pads are in good nick, cause you’ll need them.

Want a Longer Ride?

If you’ve got the legs, and you’re up for some logistics, the ride can be stretched out a little further. After stopping at Happys Hut, head back to the Happy Jacks Road turn-off and follow it all the way to Tooma Road. Alternatively, you can continue past Happys Hut on Tabletop Mountain Trail out to Kiandra. Both options will need a car shuffle, or committing to a much bigger out-and-back.

*Tabletop Trail continues all the way to Kiandra*

Tips for the Ride to Happys Hut

Phone service: Patchy at best. I’m with Optus and picked up a bit of signal at ‘Big Sky Lookout’, but nothing at Happys Hut so bring a form of emergency communication.

Bike: You’ll need a gravel or mountain bike. I rode it on my Salsa Cutthroat, a rigid gravel bike with 29 x 2.2” tyres, and it handled the mix of champagne gravel and janky 4WD track just fine.

Closures: Fire danger, aerial shootings, or trail maintenance closures can affect access. Bikes are only allowed on some trails in the Jagungal Wilderness, so keep that in mind if planning a longer trip.

Water: Plenty of views over Lake Eucumbene, but no access to it on this ride. The only water is at Happys Hut, and with feral animals around it’s best to filter it.

Wildlife: Snakes in summer, funnel-webs if you’re unlucky, plenty of kangaroos and wallabies, and the odd feral pig. Keep an eye out on the fast descent home as the roos can choose the worst possible time to dart across the road.

Hut Etiquette: Sad to even have to say this, but please respect the huts. For more information see the Kosciuszko Huts Association (KHA) page.

Toilets: There aren’t any on this ride, including at Happys Hut. Come prepared and follow Leave No Trace principles.

Disclaimer: Content on Path & Pedal is for general information and inspiration only. All route guides and trip reports are based on personal experience and research at the time of writing. Conditions, access, weather, and regulations can change. Always check official sources and use your own judgment. Outdoor adventures carry risk, and Path & Pedal accepts no liability for injury, loss, or damage.

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